On a visit to Cantina Kahlo, Liz O’Reilly discovered that décor and ambience are every bit as important as food and service.
Cantina Kahlo at The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain, has been a favourite since it opened several years ago. I’m a big fan of the vibrant colours and blue-green walls that give a distinct feeling of fun to be had. Beloved Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, for whom the spot is named, stares down from multiple portraits, while desert cacti and adobe artifacts join with stunning metal chandeliers to add to the atmosphere.
Brightly coloured seating invites you to linger and I know from experience, it’s very easy for a quick break to turn into a whole afternoon’s indulgence. Arriving for a weekday lunch, we were quickly greeted by several friendly waiters and immediately served the speciality mocktail, Amore, a delightful mix of strawberry, raspberry and pineapple juice, not overly sweet and distinctly moreish.
Then, as we sat back to take in the familiar surroundings, the food started to arrive. First up was Guacamole. Avocado with tomatoes, onions and coriander sketched the colours of the Mexican flag, while a topping of grated haloumi cheese gave a hint of local flavour. I will never cease to be amazed at how some restaurants are able to source their avocados just as they hit that mystery window of perfectly ripe, right before they turn mushy. Cantina managed it admirably and just a squeeze of lemon added a wonderful brightness to the smoothness of the avocado for a dish we returned to several times throughout our meal.
The Ceviche de Camarón was a pleasant surprise. Rather than the classic raw shrimp, this version is cooked and comes in a tangy sauce of habanero chilli, lime, tomato and mango. The combination of the sweet mango with the heat of the chilli was a great addition to the tender flesh of the shrimp, hitting several flavour profiles in one mouthful.
My favourite plate of the day was the Aguachile de Atún – a dish that’s very similar to a traditional raw ceviche, featuring chunky little squares of diced yellowfin tuna liberally doused in a sauce of jalapeño, coriander, soy sauce and avocado with cucumber, salt and lime. The firm, raw fish perfectly absorbed all the other flavours to produce a deeply umami and wholly satisfying mouthful of piquancy and heat. I was so impressed that I took some home and it tasted even better the next day!
The main courses were equally traditional with a selection of tacos bringing various combinations, including shrimp with chipotle and cheese and a crispy black shell bursting with chicken soaked in Mexican spices, chipotle and grilled pineapple. In each case the smoky, slightly sweet depth of the pepper perfectly complemented the other fillings bringing out all the individual flavours.
My pick of the tacos was the fish option, crispy battered seabass with coriander, mayo, pickled cabbage and árbol chilli. Also known as bird’s beak chilli, this small pepper is potent and added an intense hit of flavour to the mild fish.
For added fun, the tacos came with a tray of small pots offering a selection of toppings and sauces. They’re very popular allowing diners to customise their tacos and we took full advantage.
We also enjoyed a half chicken from the Tradicionales Del Grill menu ‘seasoned in the purest Mexican style’. The meat was tender and juicy with herbs and spices giving a delicate pungency to the flesh that went perfectly with the accompanying red rice – rice cooked with tomatoes, carrots and corn, all coming together to add a delicate sweetness.
For our final savoury option, we enjoyed a selection of street food, including Sopes Con Carne – Angus beef brisket, masa, black beans, tomatillo and sour cream; Gorditas De Chorizo – beef chorizo, masa, cheese, roasted salsa and sour cream; and Flautas De Pollo – braised chicken, sour cream and serrano chilli sauce with avocado and lime. Each little package in their various cornbased pastry cases offered an authentic taste of Central America and we loved the opportunity to try all the different options.
Cantina’s dessert menu offers a selection of Mexican favourites, including Coco Flan and Pastel De Chocolate but, for us, there really was only one choice. It had to be churros, the fried dough sticks that are deliciously crispy on the outside, dusted in cinnamon sugar, and soft and fluffy on the inside.
A generous sharing portion was accompanied by caramel, chocolate and berry dipping sauces and our table became momentarily silent as we tucked in with obvious enjoyment.
As expected, our quick
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